Monday, July 22, 2013

On Being Away From Home.

As it happens, routine has set in. I, Liz, have been working six days a week starting at five or six and Morgan works Monday to Friday from 8 to 5:30. We don't see much of each other if you can imagine. Like ships passing in the night.

So, routine. It tends to take hold and before you know it, weeks are just passing you by.
We have been away for four months now and its been an unexpected journey. Life plans just never stop changing do they? We just keep adapting, that's a sign of health I think. Well if I become an expert on anything during this year it is going to be finding peace in the change, the unknown.

Recently things have been changing quite a bit. I'm no longer happy here. I've been seriously trying to find my place here in this tiny town and I have finally accepted that it's not going to happen.  I try going out more, not going out at all, yoga, cooking, long walks, sleeping enough, you name it. After much thought I have decided to leave New Zealand.

I have been away from my family, my home, long enough to know how unbelievably integral to my well being that they are. I know I am not ready to go back yet but I do know how precious this time away from them is. I am feeling like I constantly sacrifice by being away from them. This has been a good thing for me, strengthening, yet I know I am not doing this to be unhappy in a town across the world. So I am going to Australia. Morgan and I have some thinking to do over the next couple of weeks because of course we face the decision of moving on together or parting ways for the time being. Morgan is in a different place then I am with her schedule and liking the town more then I do. However she might feel as though its her time as well. The thought of moving on without Morgan is scary for both of us so we will be deciding soon.

I have learned that my family is the most important part of my life. And while it makes this journey a difficult one, it also gives me sight into remaining myself and making the hard decisions to bring myself happiness no matter what uncertainties it might bring.

So, Australia it is... specifically Sydney for now. Who knows if I will feel more isolated or elated to be in a bustling eccentric city. As my wonderful mother told me yesterday, "If I don't take the next step then I will never know what step to take after that"

As Ever,
Lizzy

Monday, June 10, 2013

Nightmare on Mallaghan St.

I'm going to begin by apologizing for the long break in blogging. Morgan and I have had an interesting few weeks and I think any time we managed to get to a computer it has been spent looking ferociously for a job.

That being said, I'm just going to dive right in.

The Job Hunt.
I was speaking to my friend Peter before arriving to Queenstown and I told him my time line for getting a job.
-Arrive Wednesday
-Find a job by Friday
-Begin work on the Monday
The very first hiccup was that we didn't even arrive in Queenstown till Friday. I should have known this would be the pattern of our five week hunt for jobs, things never turn out as you plan.

Anyway. We dropped our CV's to every damn hotel in the area, we searched the web, emailed resumes, went into bars. In the beginning people wouldn't even take our CV's. We remained positive though.

In the meantime we found a crazy little house to live in. Upon moving in, each tenant receives one fork, one knife, a spoon and a tea spoon, one bowl, one big plate and one small plate. You're given one shelf in the kitchen for your food (although Morgan and I somehow ended up with three between us!). We were given a set of bedding as well. It's funny though because, although our room is tiny and we sleep in the squeakiest bunk bed ever created, I'm pretty sure an infant constructed it, we were both so excited to set up our space. I have my little trinkets displayed... my aunt Sue's gift of stones is organized just so, right beside sea shells and rocks that I've slowly collected. We taped our pictures to the border of the window. It consists of cards that my sister Beck has thoughtfully crafted with love, a picture of my dad at the age of four, a sweet photo of Katherine and Ronan looking at each other and laughing. I have truly come to value space. A sacred space which brings peace and stability only by intentionally naming it as such. We make our beds in the morning and we put our hot water bottles under the covers before climbing into a toasty bed. I selflessly chose the top bunk and Morgan reassured me that we would switch half way through, we work together like a well oiled machine.
We met our roommates which have slowly changed as travelers who are ending their summer here are replaced by those arriving for the winter. We have quickly become a family. We make dinner for each other. we go out together, we clean up after each other, we fight for shower time. It's definitely not cut out for everyone but we actually feel at home here.
I have a feeling we are going to have some crazy stories when all is said and done...stay tuned.

We've spent our time here hiking, driving to small towns and taking in views, searching for jobs, cooking good food, and enjoying the nightlife.

One of our roommates found an article about our lovely home and if you dare, you should read it. Just so our parents don't freak out I must say its not quite as bad as this article implies. 
Nightmare on Mallaghan St.

More details to come about the banter and shenanigans that we get into. Episodes include a mattress on fire, late night burger frenzies, and even a live-in thief.

Our good friend Antoine has jokingly nick named us MoMo and Crazy.
MoMo caught on after a few Captain MoMo's and cokes.
Crazy caught on after I mistakenly made a point by starting with the line "Call me crazy but..."
Language is a funny thing.

Untill next time,
MoMo and Crazy


Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Long Awaited Queenstown

So, Morgan and I have been in Queenstown for nearly three weeks and it has really had its ups and downs. After Milford Sound we arrived here optimistic that our life would just fall right into place. We would find a house and a job within days and skip all of life's worries. I think we had the idea that we would pass out a few CV's and bam, a job will fall from the sky.

This isn't how life works. I have seen it happen to me and everyone I know time and time again. See, since our arrival to Queenstown our trip has been one long string of highs. Our biggest worry seemed to stop at what sandwich to make, or where to park the van tonight. It makes sense that eventually reality would strike, the cold weather would roll in and our money would roll right out. The pendulum must swing. Our peace wouldn't be grounded in the highs, but in our strength in dealing with the highs AND the lows.

But before we let all of these anxieties creep right in we would celebrate my birthday. We went for dinner Saturday and caught the early bird special! We each and a nice glass of red NZ wine and had our steaks medium rare. We spent the night exploring the tiny streets, popping in and out of bars, dancing, and figuring out the culture of the town. We finished the night with a Fergburger! We had heard so much about this magical lump of meat, wedged between fresh baked bread, onion, lettuce, tomato relish, and garlic aioli. The place is opened from 8:00 am and doesn't close until 5:00 am and believe me, people are eating burgers at all possible hours.

The following morning was my actual birthday. Morgan treated me to a delicious breakfast of coffee, bacon, and pancakes at an adorable cafe. I received many phone calls from home which I loved. That evening we went to a tiny stone lined pub to listen to a boyfriend and girlfriend duo play folk music and then went for some Mexican food. We called it an early night. I found myself watching Ted Talks at ten before dosing off.

At around four in the morning our phone rang and I did not answer in my sleepy stoop er, but I did feel the need to check facebook to see if the caller contacted me there. To my surprise I read a message from Katherine, my twin, saying she got into a bad car accident but she was OK. A lump welled in my throat as I stumbled for my Ipad to sign on Skype, catch a decent signal, grab my headphones and coat and step outside of our shared dorm room. She explained that she was driving too fast in the pouring rain and hydroplaned around a turn. Her car flipped, strangers gathered to help, the ambulance arrived, and shortly after, her husband... The whole thing. She told me she was OK but shaken up. The bruises would appear on her body over the next couple of days and she would begin to see how her seatbelt really had saved her life.

All this to say, I am so unbelievably thankful that nothing worse happened. It shook us all up. As a sister of such an amazing and precious person to me, I felt both lucky and incredibly vulnerable. My family is a gift to me that is so delicate. It is not just worldly things that can destroy their presence in my life, but also the intangible connections that we chose to strengthen and not weaken that can disappear.

The greatest gift in my life, on my birthday and everyday, is my family. I am so far from them yet I have never felt closer. I am loved by them and I love them keenly.

The following day would be met with worry about money and jobs and a place to live but we will get to all that on the next post.

Liz

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Te Anau and Milford Sound

So we reached the little town of Te Anau, pronounced Tea Ah Now, meaning "cave of the swirling water current", in the early evening. The days are getting shorter and shorter here, sun rising aft er seven and setting around 5:30! Anyway we went on search for a hostel called Bob and Maxine's recommended to us by Lonely Planet.

As we drove up the gravel road to the front house we saw a man working on the taillight of his old land cruiser. We got out of the car and he struck up a conversation with us about checking in while he  continues tweaking the lights and breaks all the while yelling out "miracle" to himself. After getting settled we went to the grocery store to buy for dinner and the next few days.

Yum, we made pasta with fresh veggies and ground pork, garlic bread, and salad. We even treated ourselves to maple walnut ice-cream which caused the biggest fight so far on our trip! It went something like this.
Morgan and I have different tastes in ice cream. We kinda settled on a couple of flavors. Maple walnut and cookies and cream. However deciding further was the problem. I chose maple walnut because it was half the size and we couldn't keep the ice cream long, Morgan wanted the cookies and cream because we got more for less money.
She saw it as wasting money, I saw it as wasting ice cream. Deadend! In the end we laughed at it watering it down to she's a vanilla lover and I'm a chocolate lover.

After dinner we read by the fire and I watched The Prestige.

The following day we stayed in the big cozy living room as the weather was pure shit. We watched movies, drank so much tea, read, and booked our Milford Sound ticket.

The bus picked us up at 8:00 the following morning right outside our hostel and we drove the hour and a half to the Milford Sound. Our tour guide's name was Tex and he allowed us to stop off at every little bend in the road where we gazed upon the mountains and lakes.

We were able to have our kayaks in the water at around ten. In our shared kayak Morgan and I packed a big lunch of sandwiches, pretzels, apples, oranges, and a cliff bar each. We were soon kayaking towards the sound, going over safety and a brief outline of the day.

Once we rounded a turn in the river we suddenly found ourselves in the glorious Milford Sound. We kayaked toward the left side of the sound and stopped occasionally to talk about the history, it's discovery, wildlife... All sorts of tid bits. The mountains soar above, the fresh water dumps into the ocean from up above, the water is so clear you can see the sea urchins clinging to rocks below, the air is crisp, and the sun shown down on all of it. After we stopped to eat our lunch we spotted two male seals hanging out on some rocks for a lazy afternoon! We spent the afternoon kayaking this beautiful place, the size of it an illusion. From one side to the other it took us an hour to kayak.

I want to try and give you guys an understanding of how vast this place was. First of all it's not actually a sound, which is carved from water. The Milford Sound was discovered and named before they knew what Fiords were. So Milford Sound is a fiord, it was carved out by a glacier. And what it left behind is a mountain range flooded with ocean. It holds the second highest mountain in the world that juts straight up from the ocean. Lady Bowen falls, the second highest in the sound, is as high as a 55 story building, only it looks half that compared to the monstrous mountains that surround it. We spotted a boulder on the top of a mountain that Tex has been waiting to fall and we guessed it was the size of a car, wait for it! It is the size of a football field!

Everything here is enormous and seriously majestic. We had the unforgettable opportunity to explore this place for six hours.

It was a day we will remember for always. A day that reminds us of this beautiful and magical world we live in. A day that grounds us if we choose to remember the feelings it provoked. A day that humbles and fills with power. A day that rejuvenates the spirit. We feel honored to have been given the opportunity to explore this place.

We drove back to Te Anau tired from the day. Back at the hostel we had a panic because I thought I'd lost the key. Once found the panic was replaced with jubilation. We drove that evening to Queenstown, so very excited to be arriving in a place that we could hopefully call home for the winter.

Wish us luck. It's time to find jobs and a place to live.

Star Struck

As our final destination in the South Island was Te Anau, where we would go kayaking in the Milford sound before settling into Queenstown for the winter, after our lunch and quick look around Christchurch we continued our journey southwest. Since we knew driving all the way to Te Anau would be to much for the day, we decided to make a stop at the picture perfect Lake Tekapo so we would have a full next day to experience the drive into Fiordland on the southern west coast.

While we were in Wellington, we picked up a free lonely planet for the South Island. Since we have used the shit out of our lonely planet guides gifted to us for our journey, we knew this would be a good edition since we really found a lot of use in the lonely planet north island guide for our road trips and many side stops. When we first looked through our found book with FREE written over the cover, we found a highlighted section, Lake Tekapo. Of course, that first struck our eye and drew our attention to the lake. Lucky for us, it was right on our path, so we stopped. We first drove in to the town that consisted of about a block of restaurants, stores and an information center. We first stopped in the information center to find a campsite, was told of a $5 campsite down the road along with the knowledge that LakeTekapo is known for its star gazing and has one of the clearest sky's in New Zealand. Sweet as.

We then stopped at the little grocery store for some food, found our campsite, and made our home. Pulled out our camp chairs, took in the views of the new South Island scenery filled with tall jagged mountains surrounding the lake, some starting to fill with snow, made yummy pasta, and as the sun went down, started to realize it was going to be a cold cold night.

Since this was really the first really cold air we have felt since arriving in New Zealand, we pulled out all our real winter gear buried in the bottom of our containers. Thick wool socks, hats, large jackets hoping it would keep us warm as the night would get dark and the must see stars would come out. And holy moly did they. It was only about 7:30 as the sun set and the night and stars reached us. I have been continually amazed by the stars here is New Zealand, yet here in lake Tekapo, I was litterally star struck like I never have been before. As Liz and I sat in our chairs, bundled up, necks tilted back, we stared in awe. Watched shooting stars fly by and take in the sight of the star filled sky, including the Milky Way. We could not believe it, you can actually see the Milky Way. A cloudy band of stars reaching long and tall across the sky like nothing our eyes have ever witnessed or could believe they could see in the plain night sky.Unbelievable.

Cold to our core at this point, we crawled into the van and tried to get warm. Tried and tried and tried, but never succeeded. It was a cold rough night. Shivering with numb toes and hands trying to stay curled up recycling body heat as the night continued. Needless to say, there was not much sleep that night but as the us came up, we crawled out of the cold to feel the sun rays on our skin and bodies, slowly but surely getting its feeling back. We knew then on, as we just moved more south, quickly fast forwarding into winter weather, nights of sleeping in our van would have to be put at a halt for the cold, winter months here in New Zealand.

Once we got our feeling back, enjoyed coffee and peanut buter and jelly toast, we packed in our van and headed for Te Anau and a hostel.

Saturday, May 4, 2013

Lunch in Christchurch

We arrived in Christchurch around lunch time and the rain fell hard! Lonely Planet named Christchurch one of the top ten cities to visit in 2013.
As you all most likely know, Christchurch was hit by a devastating earthquake on Febrary 22, 2011 at 12:51 pm. The city was busy with people shopping and working and the 6.3 magnitude earthquake struck a mere 10 km away. 24 seconds had passed and afterward the city was never the same. When all was said and done, the rebuild would cost $30 billion dollars, the third most expensive natural disaster to ever occur.

Fast forward to the end of April 2013 and you have Morgan and I, wide eyed and jaw dropped at the remaining work left to do. Most of the city center is still shut down to rebuilding, shops and restaurants have been permenantly shut down, and construction is down every road you turn.
We finally parked and walked to the pop up shipping container mall. This little section of the city was built immediately after the quake as a temporary center for famous shops, banks, and food stalls and it has remained two years later. It's colorful and you can feel the creative energy everywhere. Morgan endured in Indian food and I horsed into a bratwurst with spicy mustard.
We strolled the streets imagining the chaos and devastation of that day, wondering how we would feel if it was our city. We found ourselves deeply moved by the rejuvenation needed by its resilient citizens in order to piece back the city.

We soon moved on in an attempt to gain some km's before nightfall.


South Island: An Introduction

The South Island.
I must begin by telling you that, although the south island is 33% bigger then the north, the south holds only 23% of New Zealand's population! 

Engrossed in our iPad devices and two and a half hours into the ferry ride, we became giddy at the site of the dark mountains that caught my eye just beyond the foggy windows. Morgan and I immediately got up to spend the last hour of the ferry outside. We sat on the deck and watched as we entered a harbor, the water beneath us a choppy veridian green and the mountains a dark Prussian blue. The wind nipped at our noses and we bundled up next to each other taking turns sighing. Overwhelmed was the only feeling I could grab for. I had an overwhelming feeling that I might be swallowed up by the vastness of the land, just the two of us exploring the south island. 

We drove off the ferry and headed for Christchurch. Only two hours into our jurney and the sun had set and the stars crept out. No longer wanting to drive, we found the closest free campsite and parked our van, made some dinner by head torch light (thanks Dad), and fell fast asleep. We woke up to cool air, cow bells, and snow capped mountains. 

From there we drove down the curving roads to Christchurch. 

The landscape.
So about this landscape... I am in awe about the colors, in love with them. 
Some trees shoot straight up, a narrow streak of lime green, resembling well trained soldiers standing before pale blue mountains. Other trees look like explosions of yellow powder,leaves so small and delicate you'd think you could lightly blow on them and the entire tree would scatter. 
The mountains are varying shades of blue and meet the sky with confidence. 
The rolling green hills seem as though they are, in fact, sheets of silk with air flowing beneath them. I am reminded of the parachutes I sat under as a child during recess. The group of us would stretch our tiny arms up, holding ever so tight. Then all at once we'd sit criss-cross underneath the fabric, enchanted as the parachute took its time releasing the trapped air, cascading elegantly towards the ground. These are the rolling silky, creamy green hills. Each are peppered with sheep that take the form of grains of rice from a distance. 
The white clouds move in and out from beneath the sun, Morgan and I adjusting to the cool shaded air. 

And so we drive, wide eyed, to our next destination. 
It is actually a wonderful challenge to continue to be transformed and renewed by the beauty around us. The amount to take in through sight is overwhelming.
Then there are the other senses.
The sound of wind approaching through rustled leaves.
The smell of the cold, salty sea.
The feel of grass between your toes. 
I know these experiences have entered my soul.
I hope that it may forever remind me of the world's beauty and harmony.
As the south island reveals its majesty to us, may we receive it humbly and with ease.

Thursday, May 2, 2013

How Wellington stole our hearts

We arrived in Wellington after a very long day of driving from Lake Taupo. To be honest I, and I believe Morgan as well, was quite ready for the city, socializing, and showers! We drove into the harbor and marveled at the bustling city set amongst rolling hills of evergreens and the pink and blue waters reflecting sunset. It only took two phone calls before Morgan found our new home for the next three nights.

Cambridge Hotel. It was once a hotel but now it's a hostel. One reception, one living room connecting one kitchen, one long bathroom, and plenty of stacked dorm rooms. We dropped our luggage, tapped into the inter web, and soon hit the showers. We were both so very excited to see blow dryers! Finally I can do something with these bangs! A little advice: Don't cut bangs before indefinite budget traveling!

We made some dinner, drank some beer, and met some of the residents. We met a few good people from, can you guess, Ireland who'd been living in Wellington for months, turns out we can't shake Irish people, they are everywhere! Anywho, we hit the town in search of dancing. And that we did! Danced, met fellow travellers, played pool, roamed the vibrant streets. This city is so young, so artistic, so colorful.

The following day we hit the Cambridge restaurant for three dollar breakfasts! We spent the day exploiting the free wifi, watching tomb raider, and, let's face it, nursing our hangovers.

That night we indulged in some burgers and fries for dinner. BTDub, the fries here are incredible! Every time! That evening was interspersed with movie watching, chocolate eating, skyping, and browsing the web.

We rose bright and early, ate our breakfast of apple scooped with heaps of peanut butter, and set out for the incredible Te Papa. Te Papa is New Zealand's national and art museum and it roughly translates as "the place of the treasures of this land". On our way we were thoroughly distracted by the bustling weekend farmers market. Couldn't help ourselves, we bought basil hummus.

We finally entered Te Papa at around ten in the morning. First things first, the beginning of New Zealand. This is a sort of interactive science walk through where you learn all about tectonic plates, volcanoes, earthquakes, water's impact, the moons pull... EVERYTHING! Morgan and I had a chance to revert to childhood in the best ways possible.

If not for our hunger we'd have stayed there for hours. However, around twelve thirty we wanted some grub. We didn't venture far because we were heading back to the museum afterward. Did I mention it's free? So we ate our lunch of BBQ burger, me and chicken blt, Morgan, along with snake bites.

Upon our return to Te Papa, we read up on refugee's history in New Zealand, women's rights, economic ups and downs, and so on. Basically any cultural history we could soak up. Following that we explored the plants and animals role's on the land. We saw how illegal transport of certain plants has wiped out entire species. We read about the Mauri creation story. We watched a film called "My Place", showcasing seven people and their deep connection to their land in different parts of the country.

We left the museum wonder filled. People here are so in love with their land. They take such pride and have such strong roots here. I was inspired by the devotion it's people have to preserving every aspect of life here. It was nearing five in the evening and we still hadn't managed to see everything!

As the sun set, we roamed the streets listening to street music and wandering in and out of funky shops. For dinner we sat at the bar of a restaurant called Chow. Morgan ordered some delicious coconut milk cocktail while I sipped on some bitter citrus cocktail with muddled mint. For dinner we shared blue cheese and peanut wantons, beef satay with spicy peanut sauce, and spicy yellow chicken curry. Everything was divine. On our stroll home we stopped in for gelato. When it comes to ice cream I am an "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of lady, chocolate for me. Morgan went with biscotti which was mouth watering as well. We called it a night early, bellies full.

In the morning we geared up to check out. I phoned my brother Paul and very much enjoyed hearing his laugh, catching up. We sucked down some cappuccinos and headed for Mount Victoria.

Up a steep long winding road sits a platform for the soul purpose of looking down on and admiring the city below. So that we did. The wind was crisp and the clouds milky as whipped cream.

We then drove over to the botanical gardens and took in the smells of the glorious rose gardens! Hundreds filling the courtyard, some growing taller then me. I buried my nose deep into the center bud and took in the sweet fragrant smells, eyes closed. Moments like these when I'm so profoundly envious of those bees, practically bathing in their nectar.

We soon headed for the ferry, eager to make the cross to the South Island. We will definitely be back in Wellington soon!

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Lake Taupo

Lake Taupo. New Zealand's largest lake that also happens to lay in a caldera of super volcano. No doubt lake Taupo would be stop on our journey. But first, a stop in Waitomo and a tour of glow worm cave. Since we really have been taking the cheap end of things and passing on guided tours, we decided to pay the $48 to get a close look at Glowworms and have a tour through a cave. When we all gathered at the entrance of the cave and our guide was going through all the safety precautions, Liz and I really had no idea what we were heading in. As soon as the door opened (yes, a door to a cave) and we walked through. I couldn't believe my eyes. Like seriously, I couldn't believe it. I actually thought I was at universal studios. Maybe it was the door, but as i looked around in awe, it was the glistening limestone walls that go for ages. It was the stalactites hanging from the walls and ceiling like icicles. The stalagmites growing from the floor. All formed and continuing to form, from water over thousands and thousands of years. Turns out, it wasn't universal studies, it wasn't man made, it was natural and it was beautiful. As the guide took us through the cave explaining the history, pointing out different features, including faces carved in the stone for a little humor (those were natural too...like shapes you begin to see in clouds if you look long enough), everyone took in the sites around them in awe and in silence. Eventually, we started heading down in darkness to the end of the tour. This was a boat ride along the Waikato river, new Zealand's largest river, and the river that feeds into lake Taupo, but first going through the cave. The first group of people got in the boat and we were left to wait for him to come back. Liz and I stood in the darkness, knowing there was a river but having no idea where it was, or even what direction our guide headed. It was dark, like real dark, all you could see was the little blue glow of hundreds of Glowworms above us. Little larvae shining their light to attract other insects so the larvae can eat.  Now, I was amazed earlier in the cave, but now I was REALLY amazed. It almost seemed like you were looking up at a dark sky filled with really bright shining stars. After waiting about 10 minutes in pitch black making jokes about falling into the pitch black river, animals that lurk in the river (like eels) or the cave falling in and having no light to be able to see how to save ourselves, thankfully, the guide came back. As the the remainder of our group got on the boat, the guide pushes off the dock and we float in darkness and silence, no engine or paddle, under the glow warms taking in there majesty until we see light. The end of the cave. We stepped off the boat and on to a dock and that was that. It was glorious and left me wanting to explore more and more caves but on we must push to Lake Taupo.

When we arrived to Lake Taupo in the late afternoon we first headed into the town of well, Taupo. After first driving through, we parked our van and decided to walk around. We visited a couple cute stores, made a trip to the bank, then headed down to the lake for a good view. And good view it was. The lake seems to go on and on and on, surrounded by beautiful house lined hills and, of course, the amazing clouds cutting off the mountains in the distance really topped it off. We sat at a lakeside table taking it all in. Over this past month, Liz and I have experienced many breathtaking views. They just don't seem to stop. Because of this, we find ourselves in stillness having to take in each view, trying to capture it forever. Of course we have cameras, and hundreds of pictures in our memory cards, but those really don't do New Zealand's beauty any justice. For any of you guys that have been, you know what I mean. The layers and layers of blue, from the oceans, the rivers, lakes, mountains, the sky along with the contrasts of the greens, the deep greens of the rolling hills or many different types of vegetation we pass, and now in the fall we have bright yellows, oranges, reds, every direction is scene to be seen. As much as the pictures don't do it justice, neither will any words. Yet, from the moments we wake up until we crawl back into bed to sleep, we find ourselves near speechless over and over, many times we are only able to muster the words "wow" or "this is just beautiful."

After taking in the sight of New Zealand's largest lake, we headed to our free campsite at this place Reid's farm, one of new Zealand's largest and most well known free campsites. It was located about 5 minutes outside of Taupo along the river. We found a spot among the already settled tents and vans near the bathrooms and settled in. Pulled out our new chairs we were very excited about and stove ready for dinner.  Pasta with garlic and tomato along with a salad. We are growing to love our little camping stove more and more and becoming more adventurous with it. The next morning? Bacon and toast. Although the stove is very little and it took us about an hour to cook the bacon and toast the toast, we love it. It is always an adventure in itself to find what we can make with our limited budget and our limited tools.

Once we enjoyed our bacon and toast, we went to Huka falls. A little north of Taupo where the Waikato river goes from being 100 meters wide down into a 15 meter wide canyon.  Although the falls aren't tall the tallest or anything like that, they certainly are powerful.  220,000 litres of crystal blue water rushing down into a pool. After a small hike around the falls we went to huka honey hive, where they have there own bee hives you can view and of course lots of honey to taste or buy. We spent along time fascinated by all the bees and everything we learned about the bees from the different types, like scout bees sent to find flowers with good pollen, honey bees, sent to collect pollen, worker bees, queen bees, the honey, beeswax, royal jelly...oh that royal jelly, and many more crazy bee facts. After  becoming bee experts, we sampled honey, and lots of it. I had no idea of all the different honeys that exist! Once we were honeyed out and thought we have to buy some honey, we ended up leaving with a mango chili mayo. I guess we were really honeyed out, but this sauce was just to good to pass up.

Honeyed out, we headed back into town. We first found a nice quite spot on the lake to make sandwiches, featuring what else but mango chili mayo. A very nice addition to our love of sandwiches and our mass consumption of them. Then we headed to pac n' sav, our favorite grocery store here based on one thing...it is cheap! We stocked up on fruits, cheeses, ham, pasta, trail mix, etc.   and headed back to our free camp site where we were early enough to grab a prime spot right on the river. We set up our chairs, grabbed our books and enjoyed the passing river, kayaks, and groups of Asians finding amusement in the littlest of things. Once it started to get darker we made our dinner. Butter chicken and a salad with avocado and corn along with a glass of wine. Delicious once again. Once it grows dark, we climb into the back of our van with our lights to continue reading.

This morning was a big day. We woke up to enjoy coffee along with an apple and peanut butter. Filled up water bottles, packed our backpack and set out for the tangariro alpine crossing. A 7 hour hike along volcanic terrain about 45minutes south of Taupo and known as New Zealand's best one day trek.Yet, as we started our drive, we noticed it was POURING rain right in the direction we were heading. Since we rarely reach Internet, and most of the time we don't know our plan for even the next day, we haven't way of checking anything like the weather...we just hope for the best. The best was not happening. We arrived to one end of the trail to a sign saying "road closed due to danger or recent volcanic activity" . Welp. So we headed to the other entrance to at least see what this was about. This entrance was open and in the poring rain and cold winds read about the track and saw half the track is closed from a volcano that erupted late last year and since it was on Maori ground, and they find the recent volcano rock very sacred, that part of the track was closed. After much consideration and debate, we decided to put off the trek until summer and better weather. We left disappointed but knowing it will be much more enjoyable and we will be able to see more when we return. So we had little chice but to continued our quest south.

Sunday, April 28, 2013

Slow moving Raglan

Man O man. Raglan is quite the little surf town. With its one main road, attractive sun kissed residents, and serious surf, calling it laid back is an understatement. It's grocery shoppers don't wear shoes! It's restaurants and bars open after six! We envisioned ourselves on a slippery slope here in Raglan. "Should we get a job or just stretch our last 400 till summer winds down?". To all those joking about us ending up on the streets... This is the town to do it, I think it might even be welcomed. If we weren't two girls raised in the city who like to enjoy fine food and wine from time to time and happen to have good work ethic, we'd happily beach bumm around this town all summer long.

Unfortunately, with fall coming to a close, we only stopped by for a night or two in order to wet our feet of this kind of lifestyle. We arrived early in the evening on some odd day of the week and stopped at a hotel with a hotel bar and a hotel restaurant. It seemed to be the place to end up after a days work so we parked it and pretended we were locals too.
About three hours later we left feeling happy and stuffed with good food and a cheap glass of red wine.

The sun had past set and we were on the look out for a five dollar a night campsite. Morgan's iPad gave this "establishment" one name but the color name painted on a piece of wood did not match. We pulled into what looked like someone's front yard but then we soon found an entrance to a big field. A tiny sign to the right read "text 0222647742 upon arrival". So I drove in and Morgan cleverly texted "at campsite" and about fifteen minutes later a man showed up to collect our money. It rained so hard that night that it kept waking us up with its whipping and pounding on the van.

The next morning greeted us with sun and we brewed our coffee and made our way to the Raglan library to pay some bills and update this here blog. Everyone was shoeless and sitting outside on there phones or computers to use the free wifi. After checking Facebook, paying the phone bill, and meeting a fellow traveler, we headed for the beach where we made chicken salad and read our books.

After the beach it was back to the main town street where we window shopped. Morgan joked with me about needing a key-locating gadget! Hilarious one Mo. And we imagined all of the endless useless stuff we might buy if we had jobs or homes. We shortly went back to our campsite, made sandwiches, read and watched the sun go down. The moon shown bright that night! Hiding behind clouds and igniting them in white light! It would only get brighter the next few nights.

The following morning we rearranged our van as we love to do from time to time! As we accumulate more things, such as camping chairs and a cooler, we find joy and humor in configuring everything underneath our bed just so... Like a game of Tetris. It's a good thing Morgan and I find humor in random everyday things. We can even manage to find humor in those moments where one of us annoys, intensely, the other. Like if I think I'm right and Morgan actually is, and she just quietly smiles as my pride slowly dissolves into chuckles. Or if Morgan reads over my shoulder and I over dramatized the situation because actually getting annoyed by that is seriously ridiculous and we laugh in that moment. Or when Morgan spills my cider all over my book and pants but we both laugh because we know it would usually be me.

This is why Morgan and I are pretty great travel partners. After eleven years of growing up together we really know how to interact with each other. We know how to communicate, how to encourage each other, and we know how to laugh. The other thing is, we know how to get under each other's skin, how to cut each other down. However, we chose not to because it's her and I here, exploring together, learning, seeing, changing a little bit.

So, organized van, half a tank of gas, a couple of best friends, we hit the road again to venture south once more.

Rotorua

 Ohh Rotorua. If any of you guys have heard of Rotorua it is for its geothermal activity. If any of you guys know me (Morgan) you know this excites me very, very much, and that is still an understatement. Unfortunately, Rotorua was a bit of a let down. Maybe I had my hopes to high for my first New Zealand geothermal activity, but turns out, Rotorua and the Maori villages that reside next to these geysers, mud boils, hot springs and sulphur springs have completely capitalized on these natural occurrences and huge tourist attractions. I guess, really, who could blame them when all of a sudden thousands of people a year are tramping through your front yards to get a glimpse of a giant geyser erupting at 10 in the morning.

 So unless we had $50 to fork out for a walk around some of the major places where these geothermal activities were happening, we were stuck with the few parks, and by few I mean two, they had open to the public for free. Liz and I first headed to Kuraiu Park, the free place lonely planet tells us to head. When we got there, we pulled into a parking lot surrounded by soccer fields looking around for geothermal activity, chuckling out loud and joking "we'll I guess we get what we paid for." But we headed out in the early morning, coffees in hand, determined to find the activity we knew had to be somewhere. After spotting the steam rising in the distant, we knew that is where we must head.
Geothermal activity at last! Although it was not much, we walked around the path to see boiling water, boiling mud and ponds with steam galore rising off it all of which was surrounded by wooden fences stopping me from getting as close as I really wanted to get, but I know my mom would be glad they were there stopping me from falling in! Although they were small occurrences, I can't let it hold back from the beauty some of the sulphur springs and the colors they can create.
   
After a walk around the park, we headed down to the coast of lake Rotorua  and a point labeled sulphur point on our map. Sounded like my kind of point. As we drove around the coast of the lake and spotted more geothermal activity we parked the car. Liz stayed put reading on a bench while I explored and walked all around to see the springs and mud boils along with all sorts of volcanic rock around. After a bit of a wander, I headed back to Liz where we drove a bit farther down the lake to a picnic site to enjoy our sandwiches, of course, and took some time taking in the beautiful lake with our books.
   
On this trip, we have had a good bit of time to read, unfortunately, books are also very expensive here in New Zealand. After purchasing "Gone Girl" at our first visit to the Warehouse, the store closest to a Walmart here, we have tried to collect the most interesting books we can find left behind at hostels and campsites. So far, we haven't had to buy another book. And although they haven't always been the best reads, they have led us to read books we would have never read before. Currently, I'm in the middle of an war book with half the book in war lingo that I have never heard making it hard to follow at times but I feel like I'm learning a whole new language, and that is something, right?
     
Well, after some good time with the lake and our books, we left Rotorua and its geothermal activity for yet another surf town we were very much looking forward too.

Matamata

Now, the weekend ahead of us, we were heading inland for a couple of days to stay with our friend Davey in Matamata. This is the small town made famous by the filming of the Hobbit. Apparently, every place of filming was to be taken apart afterwards but the people of Matamata managed to reserve the rights to the shire. For a hefty price of seventy five dollars one can stroll through the green hills of tucked away, circular door, houses. We opted for a much different option on Davey's recommendation.

Wairere Falls, the tallest on the north islands stands 153 meters tall and falls right over the ridge of the Kaimai Mountains. Once again we strapped our hiking boots on and began our uphill climb. It was forty five minutes to the lookout and on our way we climbed stairs, crossed the river and snapped photos of moss covered rocks and trees.

Funny side note: while standing in front of the railing, soar necks from looking up, I placed my water bottle on the railing. I had a brief thought that maybe I shouldn't place it so close to the edge but ignored the passing thought. Not two minutes later, I accidentally knocked it and down it fell. Down, down, down. Because I forgot the water bottle I bought for this trip at home, I bought a similar one in Auckland. So, low and behold, I'm on my third water bottle, each one getting cheaper then the other.

Anyways, another forty five minutes up to the top. This stretch of the trail was almost entirely vertical. We didn't know we signed up for rock climbing. However, what waited for us at the top was well worth the effort. A platform took you right to the drop and from there you could see for miles and miles. Patches of every shade of green broken by fall trees changing color, all under a vast blue sky. And looking down the water fall somehow made you feel so small yet gave you strength at the same time. Imagining water tearing its way to the sea, picking up rocks, finding its way through tiny cracks, falling from the sky, using its power to drive forward and down the fastest and quickest way it knows.

We arrived back to the van in nearly half the time, excited about our effort and the opportunity to marvel at such beauty.

Another sandwich was on the menu so we stopped at a picnic table to build and then devour our tomato, cheese, and avocado sandwiches and then we made our way to Davey's. Davey works and lives on a stud farm. This was a massive farm deticated to breeding, raising, and looking after race horses. We took a quick tour, meeting race winning stallions, saying high to recently weened horses, and admiring the mothers and their young in secluded fields.

Davey and his room mate Sarah took us to their local and we met loads of people and danced into the night. The town has one taxi driver who apparently rips everyone off so when we piled into the van at the end of the night we told him we had no money. He took us home anyways and Davey explained that they had an agreement that on occasion, the taxi man would have to drive him home free of charge because of his outrageous charging in the past... And I'm sure in the future too. It's a far cry from the overpriced-every time-no exceptions taxi drivers in Atlanta.

The next morning we went for breakfast and spent the day reading, doing laundry and walking around admiring horses. We had dinner at the house and drew the night to a close with the incredible Erin Brokovich film.

Sunday we went into Hamilton to explore the botanical gardens. The architecture gardens were stunning. Each section representing a different country, they had Japanese meditation gardens, traditional English gardens, and Indian style verandas to name a few. After being forced to shelter because of the heavy rain, we stopped in for a beer in the town center. The three of us sat outside under a roof of sorts and watched the rain come down, filling the city's streets and soaking its pedestrians.

That evening we headed for Rotorua but we truly enjoyed staying at Davey's for a few nights and his hospitality was warming. When you find yourself wondering where you might end up each day, it's nice to settle down in a home for a couple and unwind.

A Night out on the Mount

Leaving the Coromandel Penninsula after a relaxing day catching up with family and starting the dreaded job search, Liz and I head for Mount Manganui. Mount Manganui is the smaller, cooler, hipper surf town on the coast right outside Tauranga, the fastest growing city in New Zealand and New Zealand's largest port. Since, lets face it, Liz and I are all those things (besides surfers) we knew it was just the town for us. And boy, was it that. As we were driving in, we could see a large hill, mountain if you will, standing alone in the distance and we knew that must be our destination.

As we arrived in to the Mount, as the locals call it, the first thing that welcomes us is an Irish pub, happy hour signs and a cute town centre strip filled with cafes, pubs, shops and takeaways. As we drove around the town as we usually do first to check everything out and get our bearings straight we passed more and more things that made us continually say "this place is SO cute!"

Soon enough we made our way to the coast and to the holiday park that would be our home for the night. By this time we were ready for some cold beers and decided to treat ourselves to a night out on the Mount. So we freshened up, which is a rarity these days camping and a real treat in itself, and headed to town which was a short walk away from the camp site.

First spot was Mount Manganui brewing company that featured beers brewed right in the Mount. Liz went for the IPA and I went for the dark IPA. Both were delicious and as an extra bonus, they had a deal going on until 5 (pre happy hour) if you buy two beers you get a free order of chips/fries (so all our audiences know exactly what we are eating). This pleased us two with our backpackers budget of course. Not only did we get the free chips, but when we were ready for our next beer, it was after five and there real happy hour begun. We tried two new styles. I went for a honey lager that the bartender recommended. I was first hesitant of it being to sweet, but it too, was very tasty.
After Mount Manganui Brewing Co. We headed to check out the Irish pub, since we really haven't been to one since Ireland, but we really were not that impressed so had one and carried on to Major Toms, a real cool bar Liz had found in Lonely Planet. We first walked in to an empty bar, but that didn't deter us from this cool homey bar with couches, walls filled with books, lamps hanging from the ceiling and a friendly bartender greeting us. Although it was a quite bar we really enjoyed it and used the free wifi to make a couple phone calls to my brother, Chase, and our friend, Dustin after careful consideration of who would be up and answering there phones at such a crazy hour in the States. So anyone who got late missed calls from a weird number, possibly from Palmdale, CA, you now know who you missed.
It was now getting a bit later and we were getting hungry. After spotting a bright Mexican restaurant we went in for hopes of good cheese dip and margaritas. Both failed us and instead we got over priced tiny margaritas and a $15 cheese dip with no flavor and seemed more like thick melted cream cheese. Once we finished, disappointed, we headed across the street to our next stop, Post Bank. A bar more similar to Major Toms with comfy seating all around but here, every surface of the wall was covered in books, like floor to ceiling covered, including some cool old New Zealand books Liz and I enjoyed looking at. It also had other people, something Major Toms didn't have. After looking at the drink menu filled with fancy cocktails, including old fashions, we were both sold both having a love for a good old fashioned. Once again, ordering cocktails did not serve us well. They were very watered down and very sweet. Luckily the atmosphere was still good enough to keep us from being to disappointed but home we headed after that and a mental note to stick to beer and wine while in New Zealand.
In the morning, we woke with the sun, relaxed for a bit, made breakfast of toast and eggs scrambled in the microwave, and had coffee in the campsite kitchen, which are always nice to come across. On our way out  we stopped at a variety store where we were able to purchase some needed essentials such as laundry detergent, a stove for camping and some cooking essentials to make meals on the road much more enjoyable and continued our way south to Matamata.

Monday, April 22, 2013

Coromandel Peninsula

After high tailing it out of Auckland, we were sick of the seven dollar coffee's and twelve dollar cider's, we drove towards the east side of New Zealand and up the Coromandel Peninsula. Since Piha the weather has been gloomy but we blasted our tunes and headed east with excitement.

Once we crossed over the vast plains filled with cows of all sorts of colors we reached the town of Thames and quickly realized we wanted to move right through it. Morgan read about Cormandel Town so we head north on the Peninsula in pursuit. Although we had some food in our van we figured we would stop for a lunch to treat ourselves with the mussels the peninsula is famous for. We stopped at an adorable little place called the pepper tree and shared two meals. The first, a steak burger with a fried egg on it with a side of thick cut fries, or wedges. The second, a big bowl of green lipped mussels soaked in tomato broth served with a big chunck of crusty bread! The mussels were the biggest we'd ever seen and soon we were full beyond belief.

We decided to venture all the way up to the tip of the peninsula to search for the cheapest camping possible. Past the town of Colville the road is completely unsealed so naturally the forty five minute drive past was a bumpy one. Beyond bumpy it was also terrifying. Most of the road was only wide enough for one car and was filled with steep drops and winding turns.  Because of the large amount of rain, parts of the road were completely flooded and we found ourselves wondering if our sweet van would make it through the waters.

Well it did and we eventually found our way to a small cove at the Northern most part of the peninsula. We made our way to the office and spoke about the Boston bombings with the lady in charge of the site. We had been semi removed from the entire devastation which feels weird. We were left to hear from others or catch something on a television in order to keep ourselves informed. Everyone here has been very concerned with the state of Boston which makes us feel quite at home. The events have really caused heartbreak worldwide.

So we found ourselves in a mountainous cove with one other female camper. I walked down to the rocky waters in my raincoat and was feeling overwhelmed in general. The ominous weather didn't help. Morgan read, I journaled, we skipped dinner and went to bed early. As I was feeling homesick and anxious as could be, I quickly found remedy in a good night's rest.

The following morning we woke to some dry weather and felt grateful, however brief it would be. We went back to Coromandel Town and found a little and adorable coffee shop with free wi-fi. There we spent the better part of the afternoon searching for jobs and drinking way too much caffeine. I also indulged in a delicious slice of chocolate cake. Since arriving here, I have developed a fierce obsession with chocolate! Morgan had better step aside. Ha.

Anyways, the day of job hunting calmed my nerves about being able to last here in NZ. That's how life works really, well for me anyways. From time to time we are confronted with problems or heartache and we must learn how to endure the moments of darkness, trusting that they soon will pass, just as they always do.

We left and headed south towards the Bay of Plenty.

Sunday, April 21, 2013

Piha

It had taken a full day of travel but we were nearing the small surf town of Piha. As Morgan descended the valley I became hypnotised by the houses tucked into the jagged vertical reaching mountains that beautifully lined the Tasman Sea.

We found our campsite and checked in with the front desk lady.  She quickly informed us of the two Auckland boys who drowned four weeks before our arrival. We stood there in shock as the gave us the detailed report of the search and rescue, where bodies typically are found washed up, and finally where the two young men were found the next day.  She was an eccentric woman and I found myself nodding, refusing to add to the conversation, just waiting for the discussion to come to a close. Ha. It finally did.

Once we found our campsite we quickly went to the showers. For fifteen dollars a night we got warm showers and it had been three days since our last chance at a shower. I could have stood beneath the surging hot water for twenty minutes, but after six short minutes it cut off completely! I managed to properly shower but that left no room for the luxuries of lollygagging.

After the shower we went for the kitchen to make sandwiches. At this point our recording of our sandwich intake was at eleven! I absorbed the presence of some of the other travellers, listening to them plan their trips. Soon we retired to our comfortable abode. Shortly after reading our books and listening to music we drifted off to sleep.

I woke up around seven in a panic about the future, jobs, money, so I distracted myself with my book and once Morgan woke we went in search of a hot delicious coffee.

The rain moved in fierce and quick that day. We took our raincoats and headed for the black sandy beach.  The small beach was hauntingly beautiful.  The aggressive waves threw themselves onto black rock that hoisted themselves high into the air. We sat on the beach reading until I left Morgan to walk around a bit.

Back in the kitchen of the campsite I met a man no older then eighteen who had been traveling alone since he graduated highschool.  He was German but his English was impressive.  We spent the afternoon and most of the night building a puzzle together. He offered Tea, we offered Hot Chocolate. Once Morgan returned she remained reading and we enjoyed an afternoon of listening to the ran.

That night we made grilled cheese and chicken noodle soup. The storm had become so powerful that it took out all of the power and we had no choice but to head back to our van. I had much trouble sleeping that night as the whipping winds knocked our van from side to side. I kept imagining our van flipping right over, either that or a Tsunami was headed our way. Soon morning came and with the sun, the rain dissipated for a short time.

We drove back into the big city of Auckland to collect our bank cards and the few odds and ends that I, of course, left behind in the hostel.

Next stop, The Cormandel Peninsula.
Liz and Morgan

To the Tip Top

After our beautiful day at Spirit Bay, we headed out in the morning to Cape Reinga, the most Northern part of New Zealand. At this point, there is a light house and is where you can see the waves of the Tasman sea crash into those of the Pacific Ocean. This is also where Maori believe souls leave the world to enter the afterworld or as they would phrase it there "spiritual homeland." As Liz and I walked from the car park up to the cape, you could see how the Maori came to find this place so majestic and spiritual. As you looked out, all you could see was ocean, for what seemed forever. and Although you couldn't really place the crashing waves of the two seas colliding, it was a beautiful scene.
The scene that I found more majestic though was a 800 year old Pohutukawa tree, just east of Cape Reinga and that lighthouse. The tree stood alone in the distance jutting out of what seemed to be solid rock as the waves crashed into it, and many times over the tree. The first picture (not taken by me as I am on a public computer and we haven't figured out how to put our own pictures up...check facebook for those!) is of the cape as a whole. On the left you can see the lighthouse and the rocks jetting out on the left is where this beautiful and strong Pohutukawa tree stands.
This is a bit of a closer image of the tree. You can see how little vegetation is around the tree and how powerful the tree is to survive 800 years facing such a harsh climate and salt filled air.

Maori believe that this tree is where souls leave the cape, travel to this tree and down its roots to another spiritual world. It truly is a powerful scene and the simple idea that this tree has survived over 800 years is absolutely amazing. Cape Reinga is one of the most sacred and spiritual places for the Maori and it is very easy to see why.
 
 
After leaving such a special spot, and the farthest north we could travel, we started our journey back South soon to discover another very spiritual spot in the Waipoua Forest. After reading about the forest in our trusty Lonely Planet guide, there were two things that Liz and I both agreed seemed worth the treks. One was to Tane Mahuta, the largest kauri alive. And the other was to the Four Sisters, four tall kauri trees that all fused together at the base.
Tane Mahuta is named for the Maori forest God and is believed to come from the Sky Father, Ranginui, and Mother Earth, Papatuanuku. Tane Mahuta is believed to have stemed from a seed over 2000 years ago although it is difficult to fully tell the age. What is believed by the Maori's is that Tane broke his parents (the sky and earth) apart to bring light, space and air and therefore allowing life to flourish.
What a tree!
 
After taking is the beauty and power of Tane Mahuta, we headed to the four sisters. Although the Four Sisters wasn't nearly as big as Tane Mahuta, it was just as beautiful. Seeing the four trunks come together in such a beautiful way was really a breath taking moment. Once we were able to snap some photos of the trees and take in all their glory, we headed back to our van and continued our exploration South.

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Muzak

Ok, I just wanted to write a quick little rant about our music situation in this little old van of ours.

We by the car and soon realize the radio doesn't work. First we joked that radio must not be popular in New Zealand but how is that possible? Isn't music a world trend? Hasn't it been at the heart of most  cultures for ages and ages? So we finally concluded it was our car. We can't locate an antena! Problem detected.

So we went to the warehouse, the closest equivalent to Walmart. Although, they treat their employees right, it's not actually that cheap, and I don't have sensory overload, it's a real problem, when I arrive upon the scene. Anyway, the warehouse... They have a decent CD section, B lined to the on sale items. We finally settled on two CD's. The first, a compilation of 101 #1 hits. I believe it has six CD's total ranging from Katy Perry to Dolly Paton. From Snoop Dizzle-D to Tina Turner! The other CD is titled "the Roots of Northern Soul". Smokie Robinson, the Temptations, the Chantels, it's all tucked in their. We love getting to know this music movement.

Here's the real kicker, and the reason I felt this story became worthy of telling although I'm starting to doubt it. Ha.

Our "state of the art" sound system only decides to play when it feels like it! We put in the first CD and it spit it out with nothing but the words EJ on the screen to explain the issue. Once it accepted a CD it liked, it played probably four songs before shutting down completly.

This has been happening ever since. Everyday we start on the road again, we wonder if our CD player will behave for our drive. Or am I going to have to keep singing "Everyday is a Winding Road" down the twisting highways? Morgan is well over this might I add. It's mostly maddening, but it also makes us unbelievably excited every time it clicks on. We cheer and high five as Train's "Hey Soul Sister" plays through its odd lyrics but catchy as hell tune!

Anyways you might like imagining Morgan and I in all our glory and extravagance.

Sunday, April 14, 2013

Spirits Bay


Ok. To begin this post I must say that I will fall completely short of accurately describing this paradise of a place we stumbled upon one sunny afternoon.

After driving north from the Bay of Islands we were fast approaching Cape Reinga where we knew of a few camp sites to settle in. However, on our journey we fell upon a sign for Spirits Bay. During our many hours of reading travel books and imagining places through written descriptions we knew that Spirits Bay could be described as one of New Zealand's most beautiful beaches. As stopping at beautiful beaches and eating our sandwiches had become a pattern in our short trip, we decided to stop here for lunch. 

Forty five minutes down a winding and dusty gravel road, we arrived at Spirit Bay campground. Three other cars had set up shop amongst the green pastures and towering dark green hills. We parked our car, quickly suited up, and trotted towards the beach. Soon we found ourselves standing, weak in the knees, before a pristine untouched beach. Smooth white sand, gentle blue waters, and towering green forest behind us... We had arrived. 

We ate our salami, apple, and blue cheese sandwiches and got lost in our books as well as our private bay. We sun bathed nude, we took solitary strolls, we drank white wine, and dipped into the water. Periodically Morgan and I would look at each other with nothing to say but with mutual understanding that this moment, this entire afternoon, was one to cherish. 

Soon the sun began to set. After referring to my compass we realized that it would set just before us and we waited in anticipation for the giant sun to sink into the water. Soon the sky was not just blue but orange and bright green.  The water just below mimicked the same. We took photos of each other and everything in sight during the last moments of the setting sun, when everything the sun touches is flooded with golden hues. The green hills surrounding us quickly faded into a deep green, almost black. The water turned a cold gray and the sun was giant and fiery orange. It soon grazed the horizon and in a few moments, tucked itself behind the sea. What it left behind was dusk, a colored filled sky and rapidly fading visibility.

How connected we felt to the sun. How connected we felt to the Earth. 

We quickly made it back to our van to throw together a salad of red pepper, corn, and beets in the last light of the day. Just a short while after, the stars and all of their glory replaced the powerful sun. We were once more put in our place. A place on the northern end of a tiny island on an abundant Earth. Connected to one another, to our families, and to this world. Feeling humbled once again and empowered once more, that everything is so intricately connected. Just as the leaf relies on the sun, so does the bear rely on the winter. Just as the bat relies on nightfall, so does the tide rely on the moon. And so do we rely on this Earth and on each other. 

TonightI sleep in the comfort of these truths. 

Bay of Islands


We headed out of Mangawhai heads after a long cliff walk to continue our journey north to our next destination of Bay of Islands. Now bay of islands is something we have always heard about, and one of the first places we read about when we started our research of Zew Zealand. So, we were pretty anxious to arrive. After reading all about the Bay of Islands we heard of two major towns we could go to, Russel or Paihia. These two towns aren't next to each other but are opposites and a ferry ride away from each other. Once we read about both we knew Paihia was the winner. 

As the sun set and we finally arrived into Paihia, we had hungry stomachs and a craving for fish and chips. Thanks to Lonely Planet, we headed for a place not far from town called Shippey's, located on a bridge and in an old sailboat where we both enjoyed fish and chips and a warm meal before heading to a campsite we had passed on our way in. Once again, we had no idea of the beautiful setting we were settling in but we were excited to learn of free wi if (on a campsite!). With the wi if we were able to do our research since we wanted to spend another night in Paihia, but be closer to town. So, in the morning we called a hostel, Pickled Parrot, closer to town that according to Lonely Planet had dorms and "sites" available for the same price as the campsite we were currently in. We luckily caught the owner who informed us that they don't usually allow for camper vans, but since it was off season and we were only staying a night she would allow us to crash in the parking lot. 

So we headed out of the holiday park and to the hostel! Now, if I were to ever open a hostel, I would do it exactly like Pickled Parrot. As we pulled into the lot, we knew we liked it. We walked through the outside entrance into an open space with outside tables, chairs, and even a dog. We were sold! All of the dorm rooms surrounded the area along with the toilets/showers, kitchen, and common living room with many games, books and movies to entertain any group of people. 

Since we arrived pretty early and in the middle of their clean, we were told to come back in a couple of hours to check in and have much needed showers. So off we were to explore Paihia. 

We first drove by the beaches and onto the main little street. Gorgeous it was, but really nothing too extravagant. As we had researched, unfortunately, to experience bay of Islands for all it has to offer, you have to fork over a pretty penny, or a small child in the eye of our backpacker budget to take a boat among all the islands. So we settled, if you will, to traveling a bit north of Paihia to Hokianga falls and down a secluded bay with black rock to have our typical lunch of salami sandwiches and take in the sights from shore. 

After lunch, it was beach time! After funded much needed beach towels from the dollar store, as we found ourselves on beaches time and time again, it was to the beach we headed. Here on the beach we relaxed, swam, and took in the free scenery before heading to Mako's bar, a beach bar with big wooden tables and a nice homey feel, for a couple of cold beers before heading back to the hostel to check in. At the hostel we were able to clean up and rest before heading back in town to treat ourselves to a (semi) nice dinner. After passing a couple places, we found ourselves back at Mako's for a good steak, chips and salad. Yum.

Leaving Mako's we figured we had one more drink or a good ice cream in us before heading back. Ice cream then bed it was. 

In the morning we woke to enjoy a free breakfast of toast and cereal (a real treat) before heading out Paihia and the Bay of Islands. Although it was good to be in a town with other human interactions, a super cute hostel, and a nice beach, we still preferred our untouched, middle of nowhere, gravel road beaches that took our breath away.

Morgan

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Beaches Galore

After departing a beach we were convinced would never be topped and moments we will forever remember, we had to keep on heading north. Much to our amazement, the breathtaking beaches continue for hours and hours.

As we have no real destination and our only real direction is north, we take scenic route after scenic route which never seem to fail us and continue to leave us breathless. The extremely windy roads lead us up Through rolling green hills and then back down to crisp blue beaches. There are even the special moments where you can see it all in every direction possible. Since we can't seem to pick up any radio stations in New Zealand and we foolishly didn't bring any CDs on our journey, we ride in the simple sounds of our sighs, "wows", and "is this really happening?"

After driving a little farther and the sun had completly set, we decided it was time to find a place to park our new home and get some rest. After looking upon maps and maps, tour books on tour books, Mangawhai heads it was and a quaint little campsite right on the water was the winner. Everything was just as we imagined as we planned this adventure. We first stopped in the quite little town at a pizza joint with hungry stomachs. As we scraped up the rest of our cash on hand we were able to get a pizza that just hit the spot. A chili sauce base, salami, chorizo, red peppers and of course jalapeƱos to really set our mouths burning.

As we get to the campsite and parked our car, it was completely dark at this point so we couldn't really see the beauty around us. Yet, looking up provided all the beauty one could ask for. The stars. Omg the stars. As stars have always been something I have found such beauty and amazement in, I really could not  believe my eyes. There were literally more stars then black in the sky. No words or pictures will ever be able to explain the glistening sky. 

Although it was only about 9 o'clock, our exhausted bodies were excited and ready for our first night sleep in our van. We crawled in the back, opened our books and asleep we were within 10 minutes. 

As the sun started to shine over the water and into our windows, we let out a stretch and decided to see what surrounds us. Glorious beaches and sand dunes, just another morning. After we took some time adjusting and journaling, we threw on our hiking boots and set off on a 3 hour cliff walk. 

We first set off along a paved road and down to another beach to get to the actual start of the trail. Stairs, stairs and more stairs to start us off. What have we gotten ourselves into? As we start to get higher and higher we become more and more breathless from both the view upon us and the cliff we're climbing. Once we get to the top it is a mostly steady walk with perfect view of perfect blue beaches, islands in the distance and I, of course, can't leave out the volcanic rocks washed up on shore. After about an hour and a half walk along the cliff, the trail starts to lead us back down to the beach. From here, we climb over rocks and rocks, strategically placing our feet on each stone in front of us, as there is no sandy beach path to get us back to our home. We stop along the way as beautiful stones and shells catch our eyes to add to our fast growing collection of found objects throughout our adventures. If we could figure out how to put post pictures, there would definitely be pictures  involved right now. 
After about 45 minutes of this, we reach some sand, or atleast somewhat of a steady ground. Picnic time it was. We sat on some rocks still jetting out of the sand every now and then and pulled out our salami sandwiches. They always hit the spot as we sit and take in the beauty we just witnessed and the beauty that is now surrounding us. 

Beauty seems to always be around us, and although it may seem to be an exaggeration with everything you may have heard about New Zealand and everything you are reading in this blog, it still is not enough to fully explain what our eyes have seen. From walking around Auckland, to sipping wine at cable vine vineyard, driving away in our van for the first time, stripping down at pakira beach, rainbows, volcanoes, stars, beaches.... Everything in New Zealand is more beautiful then anyone and any picture could have actually prepared me for. Liz and I continue to take it all in and feel extremely blessed for what we are able to witness, explore and experience. 
And this is still only the beginning. 


Liz and Mo

Pakiri Beach

We left Auckland in the late afternoon in our new van filled with excitement. People had been asking us what our plans were but our only response has been "somewhere north of here". So finally we left the big city behind us in search for some quieter parts of NZ.

I read about Pakiri beach the night before so it caught our eye on the winding roads. After about thirty minutes of gravel twisting road we turned right for Pakiri. After passing a huge Holiday Park, designated areas for people like us to camp and use showers and what not for cheap, we came to the end of the road to a tiny beach access.

Eager as ever we grabbed our cameras and rounded the corner for the beach. What stood before us was quite possibly the most beautiful sight I've ever encountered. A long stretch of golden sand before blue waves came crashing on top. To the left was the big old setting sun with mountain ranges just beneath. Beyond the water stood pale blue islands, jutting out from the water with ferocity and confidence. Morgan said to me in a near panic, "I have to go swimming". So we literally ran back to the car and as we did the rain began to fall gently. At the car we stripped down and got into our suits. "Look Lizzy", she practically screamed. I turned around and to my amazement a perfect rainbow had formed right above us.

This was the moment. The moment I had been eager to come upon. This was the moment for my sister's gift. Becky gave me a high or low pack for my going away. A small package that I was to keep sealed until I had a moment of unbelievable bliss or found myself in a place that needed cheering up. Morgan agreed, it was settled.

We got back to the water, gently laid down my scarf, and we both sat to open the gift. Each member of my family had contributed a letter of some sort and a few gifts as well, the M and M's are perfect! As I read the letters I was overwhelmed with love! In Becky's kind words she wondered what led me to open the gift and then told me no matter the reason I am exactly how I am meant to be. Paul's kind and big brother words gave me great comfort. My Mom sent a pocket mirror with a photo of her and my step dad. Morgan and I took it all in, wet cheeks and all.

Then the time came. The time to get stark ass naked. We shed our suits and danced and screamed. The sun kissed our faces, the water cooled our skin, the salty air embraced us. This was a perfect moment and we were perfect inside of it.
Lizzy and Shmo

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Auckland and Waiheke

So, now that you've gained an idea of the have-to-do's it's time we discuss a bit of the fun. After all we don't have jobs yet and we are in quite an incredible place. Who wouldn't take advantage of such a scenario?

We arrived Thursday afternoon. Made it through customs after they washed our hiking boots of any foreign dirt. They seem to be very careful about anything that might threaten their incredible surroundings. We caught a bus into the city and quickly located our hostel. At this point it was too late to go to a bank or cell store so we decided to take it handy.

Morgan and I desperately needed a shower! I hadn't even taken my socks off in two days! It's amazing how a hot shower can turn around any poor situation. After the showers we met our new roomies. DeeDee and Daniel. Two Danish travelers who were spending their last month in NZ. They were sun kissed from a couple of weeks in Thailand. They began their travels in Washington DC. From their they went tocalifornia, Peru, Brazil, South Africa, India, and Asia. I'm missing a few countries but we all get the point. They had each saved $18,000 for six months of travel. They bungi jumped the highest in the world, they got tattoos in Thailand by bamboo, and DeeDee even had here appendix removed in Belize. Anyway you get the point. They were incredible... And exhausted.

We went walking. Soon we stumbled on this tiny pedestrian street with high balcony beer garden type drinking areas, picturesque is an understatement. We found a burger joint, climbed the stairs, and parked our weak and famished bodies at a tiny table looking down on the street below. We shared a meal of hot wings, a blue cheese lettuce wedge, and a cheese burger. We also had a crisp NZ  Sauvignon Blanc. It didn't take us long to find quite a hipster hangout. After dinner we walked across the street to a Belgian bar called Occidental. We each had a Lefe and toasted to a year together. Struggling to stay awake, yet excited to explore we went to one last roof top bar and had a cider each. Not so impressed.

The next day was marked with buying a car, phone, tax number... All that jazz. We did, however, find ourselves on K Street. What a cool part of town! Adorable thrift stores, scrumptious Asian food, music, bars, and parks! Oh the parks! When we figure out how to upload pictures on this blog I will reveal to you the splendor of Myer's park. I grabbed a cold Dr. Pepper and Morgan went with a cherry coke. We sat on the tip top of the hill and basked in the sun. Locals had wrapped burritos or take away Malaysian and gathered here to chat and enjoy the wonderful view and weather. This was a glorious moment.

After buying our van, just off K Street we went into a bar to have a celebratory drink. Turns out it was the gay version of deadwood! Wild Bill's I believe it was called, but we paid no mind. The bartender was delightful and the cold $5 beer was the ticket.

Back down the hill to our hostel. The streets we're alive at Friday rush hour. We met our new Danish friends and made plans for dinner next door. We ate our individual pizzas and exchanged stories of travel and home. After dinner we went to a few bars that Morgan found. The first was way overpriced  so we moved on. After what seemed like much aimless wandering we finally found Rakina. Local Dj's spun some hip hop and we danced our pants off as we always do.

The next morning we set out for Mission Bay. A nearby beach town. We weren't exactly sure how far but we figured we had nothing else in the world to do so one foot in front of the other we went. About two or three hours later we rounded the corner to an adorable bustling beach town. We scarfed down a couple of chicken wraps and collapsed on the sand. Beck, my sis, kept stressing the importance of touching the earth with bare feet and this was the first real time. Oh how sweet it was. What a literal way to ground yourself to your experience. Here we are, finally, long awaited.

Ice cream and a bus back into the city. We met our new roomies. A couple from Manchester. They seemed great. As they went to a house party we enjoyed our room to ourselves. Showered and found ourselves asleep at around ten.

Sunday! We woke up early, packed a picnic, rented bikes, and caught the ten o'clock ferry to Waiheke. One arduous uphill climb and we realized bikes were a bad idea! No bother, we hiked down to the white sandy beach and made our lunch. Morgan ventured down towards the water and I sat journaling about my disbelief. The cove we found ourselves in was peppered with docked sail boats, presumably resting from exotic sailings around the south pacific. Jagged rocks dissected the beach and deep green trees and bushes reached from the edge of the sand towards the green water.

We walked for about twenty minutes and found ourselves on another beach on the exact other side of the island. By this time large heavy clouds had begun to roll in. The weather seemed to match this beach. Unlike the white sand at the previous beach, this one was comprised of dark rock. Blacks, purples, burnt oranges. We were in heaven. Morgan because of the geological gold mine and me because of the richness in color. Although at this point our reasons seem to bleed together. We read about a short hike to a nearby vineyard so we set up the mountain. On our way to the top we could see the ocean on either side of the island and mountains and volcanoes galore.

Cable bay vineyard.
It sat atop a green treeless mountain and over looked the city beyond. We enjoyed a wine tasting and lounged in the sun on the patio. I joked to Morgan that this is where I would be proposed to. We were in one of those places that makes you just sigh over and over only because you can't seem to take it in any other way.  After talking with a family who invited us to their home we made it back to the ferry.

Last night we got back to the hostel, made some grilled cheese sandwiches and watched movies in our hostel.

I watched a movie called The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. I must quote a line from it.
"The biggest failure is the failure to try and our greatest success is measured by how we cope with disappointment"
How true these words rang in my heart.

Morgan and Liz